It is not easy to suggest a seven-day voyage through the central Dalmatian islands;
one could enjoy wandering three or four days just around Vis and Biševo or just along the
bays of Å*olta or just around Brač, and then to the Bol - Jelsa - Vrboska - Stari Grad triangle. Then
during the next three days tour the stunning coves of the Paklinski islands or Å*ćedro... To say
nothing of the beauty of the southern coast of Korčula or the challenges of Lastovo... Two weeks
would not suffice for a true central Dalmatian tour! We will limit ourselves, therefore, to only one
of the possible proposals.
On day one it will be enough to sail the 19 miles from Split to Maslinica on the island of Å*olta
(only 9 miles from Trogir). The islets off Maslinica from the western cape on Å*olta form a very
nice group. Directly neighbouring Maslinica is Å*eÅ¡ula Bay. (Maslinica is easily confused with a
destination closer to the coast, Nečujam Bay with its five or six well-protected branches. Roman
Emperor Diocletian’s fishpond was located in the southernmost branch – a wall from it has been
preserved 1.5 metres under the present sea level.
Head out on the open seas on day two – its 25 miles of open water to Komiža (29 miles from
Nečujam); with the mistral blowing off your starboard side it should be a pleasant sail. Off Cape
Barjaci on Vis you’ll be awaited by somewhat larger waves as the mistral picks up strength. In
Komiža, if you find a free berth, draw in behind the breakwater were there are moorings, electricity
and water available. Evening in Komiža will pass quickly, and if your get into a conversation
with one of the older locals about Palagruža, the falkuÅ¡a sailboats, the Komiža pogača pastry
and salted anchovies, you’ll hear wistful tales of the glorious history of fishing and how fishing is
holding up these days, still almost the only source of income in this place, reminiscent of southern
seas. (The food and ambient is excellent at the Bako and Jastožera restaurants).
Start the next morning by making the 5 miles out to Biševo; try to drop anchor off the entrance
to the Blue Grotto, and if you don’t succeed in this, have the crew make trips in turns to the cave
– someone should always be on the boat. If you can swim into the cave the experience will be all
the more exciting! The fantastic effect of the play of light in the cave depends on the position of
the sun and is best around 11 o’clock or at noon. The Mediterranean monk seal used to live here
and is still seen from time to time in the Adriatic. After the beauty of the Blue Grotto, and before
casting off to sail the southern shores of Vis, round Biševo to its other side to Salbunare Bay or
to Porta (Biševo ports). When sailing along the cliffs of the Vis coast find Stiniva, a natural phenomenon
featuring a beach set between the rocks. Right next to it is Mala Travna in which local
Vis poet and environmentalist Senko Karuza sells his wine and cooks in the local style during
the summer. Be sure to drop anchor if only for a short stop off the islet of Budihovac: you’ll find
clear water in shallow lagoon that can be entered only from the south. You’ll anchor under the
vineyards where one of the island’s finest plavac wine grapes is maturing.
Round the northeastern cape of Vis by evening and make for the Vis harbour (or alternatively:
drop anchor off beautiful and gentle Stončica; there is an excellent restaurant there owned by the
Lincir brothers where, besides fish, you can order goat meat). In Vis just as in Komiža there are
equipped berths on a long waterfront. There is also a gas station here; right were the waterfront of
Issa was in the antiquity. You can also berth in Kut, the oldest and best-looking part of the harbour
on its southeast. There are two culinary rarities here, the Vatrica and Pojoda restaurants, the
latter a top-notch affair owned by Zoran Brajčić. That will bring the days total to about 23 miles.
On day four it is already time to start heading back, for a start definitely to Hvar (14 miles). Its your
choice whether to make for the crowds in Hvar’s harbour itself, the greenery of Palmižana marina
on the Paklinski islands or the peace of one of the ten or so bays along their southern coasts; from
the marina you can take their boat across to the city of Hvar. Hvar is simply Hvar – you have to
experience it. Squeezed into a small area is an ancient patrician city with a wealth of history that
is justly a favourite with many tourists. In the bevy of restaurants you can find excellent eating at
the Bracanović family’s Luvij wine konoba or at the Lukulusu.
Round Cape Pelegrin next morning towards Stari Grad (15 miles). You can stop for a swim on
your way in the nice coves on the northern coast or in the dozen inlets of port Tiha under the
northern cape of Stari Grad Bay. In this deep and wide bay you will discover Hvar’s other face: a
town of fishermen, farm hands and narrow streets in the midst of which Petar Hektorović’s 16th
century Tvrdalj, a fortified villa, proudly stands with its renowned fish pond as a centrepiece.
Like on Vis, here too you will find equipped berths with moorings and an abundance of cosy
restaurants on the beautiful narrow streets. You have sailed into the island’s oldest settlement,
an ancient Greek colony.
Day six should be used to wander with your boat to the numerous bays towards Vrboska, Jelsa
and on to the east, but if you do not want to leave too many miles ahead of you on the last day,
point your prow towards Milna on the island of Brač (15 miles from Stari Grad). You will find two
marinas there. (If you have the time, before passing through Splitska vrata on your way to Milna,
take a swim in one of the many inlets of the wonderful and densely forested Lučice Bay, only two
miles from Splitska vrata to the southeast.)
For tomorrow’s return to Split you have only some ten miles to cross (18 to Trogir), so that there
is time for another swim in one of the bays on your way, either those on Brač (near BobovÅ¡ćica)
or on Å*olta (Stipanska, Lestimanova or KruÅ¡čica).


taken from Journalist Web